The Journey

Who would not be excited when you hear about Europe tour plan, so was I when J (My Hubby) told me “Let’s do a France and Switzerland trip”. My first shock reaction came when he said it’s going to be 500 km cycling trip from Paris to Nyon(Switzerland), second bombshell was for whole trip, all I had to carry was to be fit in small pannier backpack to be fitted back to cycles. Yes, it was a complete self supported trip where we had to carry bike support tools plus minimalist clothing. 

It was first time for me, first time bicycle tour, continuous long day rides, unfamiliar country, completely self supported, just the two of us on the wheels, sounded adventurous and exciting, but I was also quite apprehensive about it. 

J had done few supported group bicycle trips before in Taiwan, Cameron highlands (Malaysia) and Manali-Leh. Being a travel freak, to put it right, adventure freak! He loves to venture out on his own. Having known the facts and fancies about the France cycling tracks through his friend, the France cycling bug stuck him long back. For us, things fell in place for May month, mid of spring and perfect weather for cycling, what more, we have also got 15 hours of sunlight in a day.   He is a pro in planning and I took up the execution part, we both made good combo for the to-do list we had. 

The Plan: The plan was to start cycling from Paris after a 2 day sightseeing around Paris, all the way to Nyon(Switzerland) in 7 days(500 km), where our friends stay. 4 days in Switzerland to explore Swiss and return back from Zurich airport.

Pre work!

 1)       VISA – Schengen visa through France embassy (since our port of entry was Paris and majority of stay was in France)
2)       Plan – the route planning and breaking of 500 KM journey in to 7 days. (The base route was picked from http://france2wheels.com/  with few variations, Author has written a book of 6 best routes around France, which is still on my wish list to read 😏)
3)       Stay at Paris – We chose a cycle friendly hotel (De La Porte Doree). The owner of this hotel is a cyclist and promotes cycling. Hotel also has got rental cycles.
4)       Stay en-route – airbnb works budget friendly and we had to book in 5 different places as per our KM split-up, along the way of journey.
5)       Bike tools, accessories and stand-by tubes
6)       Bike packing – we planned to carry our own bikes. We had to start in Paris and end in Switzerland, so being two different countries, we dint explore much on renting out options.
7)       Packing – noting much here :)  
8)       Practice trips – we had plans to do one local ride along with full setup of bags! Well, it’s still only on plans ;)
9)       Fitness level – To be on saddle for 6+ hours for continuous 7 days with target average of 80km per day, any normal person requires to keep up some endurance, at least that’s how it works for me! Well, there are always exceptions ☺. My husband with his hectic work schedule, he hardly turned up for most of the pre rides or workouts that I did.
10)    Forex
11) Orange sim card at airport which gave life to pre-saved route maps in phone

 Day 1: Arrive at Paris

Thanks to Jet airways that has recently started nonstop flight from Chennai to Paris in 9.5 hours. We assembled the bikes in the Paris airport exit with some weird looks on us and marked the start of our journey from the airport.  It happened to be our  trial ride from Paris airport to our place of stay (hotel), where we discovered few things 🤔, which was supposed to be done as part of pre trip ;).  

We were so thrilled to see the exclusive cycling track as we came 5km away from airport, all along a lake side. This 37 km ride along the scenic view along the city side and lake was so exciting that we missed few basics that we later realised at end of ride. 1) Seat height: it’s important to have the optimum saddle height, We missed to check it out after assembling our bikes. 2) Warm-up and cool down stretches: Cool down stretchers post strenuous workout is very important! 3) Cycling padded pants: I started off with my arrival costume, jeans! Yes all in the excitement. 

It was a good recovery time for the legs, since for the rest of day 1 and day 2, the plan was to go around exploring Paris within 11KM radius

Day3: Paris to Fontainebleau

Having our lessons learnt from day1, we got the cycle ergonomics right and proper stretchers done. My better half had de-greased, oiled and pumped air in both the cycles.  When it comes to cycle maintenance throughout the trip, he was my saviour. He was mocking me that “I am on full support in spite of what we call it as self supported ride”. I should rather reword as partner supported ride 😇, better justified now!

This 76 KM ride from Paris to Fontainebleau was a cakewalk flat ride through scenic cycling track along Seine River, forest watching people cycling, trekking, camping and kids playing. We had proper breaks in-between. Relaxed ride except the fact that last uphill was killing, and the downhill was thrilling 😏 . We learnt that doing cycling with our pannier back bags in the elevations is going to be tough and time consuming.

Day4: Fontainebleau to Fleury-la-vallee through Sens

This day was the highlight of the whole trip. Adventure day, I should call it out!  This day had the maximum distance to be covered as per our plan. 106 km and that would be my maiden 100. Doing my maiden 100 in France with my better half on my holiday biking trip, what an incredible milestone! Sounded great if alone I had known the challenges: riding in rain, temperature came down to 10 degrees, drenched cloths, socks & gloves,  difficultly in operating mobile for navigation in rain, no food, battery drained out, above all  a determined husband who was certain to complete the target for the day. I can’t take any more!

 It was raining throughout the ride and we kept riding with positivity. If we did not meet this 106 today and break it to two days, we had to rebook all our forthcoming 4 night bookings. Its availability, cost and time bound and definitely not a tranquil task!

While packing, i did a stupid miscalculation that my windshield jacket would also act as a rain coat. Whole body was drenched and the soggy socks and gloves was the most difficult part to handle. As I kept riding, I didn’t feel that bad but once I stop, I started to shiver. Hands and legs were numb or frozen? Something that gave me a sore feel. We did a stopover at 3 places and I changed cloths and was in my last dry set, my hubby handed over his windshield jacket to me, saying two layer of windshield would give some more time for water to seep through. It was a Sunday and we dint know Sunday means a holiday for all! Even the supermarkets were closed. We could not get a pocha, leave alone the pocha! We could not find a place for our lunch. We have passed through 3 villages, it was like a haunted place, completely vacant and shops closed. At around 5.30 pm, at 67KM pass our ride (still 40 more to go), there was a small saviour bakery shop open. They just had croissants, buns and cakes. I hogged liked a pig and also stocked a big cake for rest of ride. Once coming out of the bakery, I started to feel so numb and cold. I wanted to quit and break that day’s journey. I said I can’t take it anymore. He told this and started off with his ride. “It is bearable and you can do it, you should believe you can.”

I read that message has – I have no options 🤓. I kept riding, may be the belief kept me going or seeing the man before me, who is enjoying the rain ride. Our per hour average was picking up good, once reason is stopping will makes you shiver, second your time clock is ticking, we had to compete before the sun goes down, and sunset is at 9 pm that day.

Around 9pm we reached our destination town and that second phone got switched off, power bank drained as well. Per map navigation, we are very close to our airbnb stay place. We dint have printouts either. All we know was, our host name in Chris. The name board where we stopped had some other name. The streets were haunted as well, with no person to enquire the whereabouts. As we both looked at each other, I was shuddering and ready to request for refugee access to any stranger!  The gate in front of us opened by itself. A person walked up to us and introduced himself as Michel, Chris’s son and welcomed us! That moment of relief we had in our eyes was a great feel that I could never forget. That day I had experienced extreme emotions and thankfulness when my basic needs were met: food, shelter and dry clothing! 

Michael was such a sweet host and obliged to our request for dinner and also using his washer &dryer for our wet cloths. That pasta and hash browns showed me the heaven.

Post food, I had a tiff with… who else😉.. Because, next day per rain prediction, shower till 2pm. I was determined not to ride in rain again. He was pleased to offer me the responsibility to rebook the rest of the airbnb bookings. Three out of four bookings, their next day was not available. I had to explore new places, revisit the route map and re-schedule. Not my cup of tea, neither did I have energy at 11.45 pm! 

With the whole drama, did I forget to mention the vitality of the route! First half of the route was through D-road (minor roads) that hardly had cars, and special mention to all car drivers who had utmost respect for cyclist. On the sides of D roads were the wonderful wheat farms, and beautiful unending fields of yellow flowers (later found it as mustard flowers). They all blossom at spring and we were spot on. Post Sens, majority of the route was along the river. We witnessed massive, beautiful and arty churches on all the towns we crossed.

Day 5: fleury-la-vallee to semur-en-Auxois(beautiful medieval town)

Weather prediction showed rain in fleury-la-vallee till 2pm. If we managed to cross it soon, the next town seems to be clear by 11 am. With the target of 96KM for the day, for our saddle time we maintain, we need to kick off by 10 am.  

We started off with the brave head in the drizzle, lucky enough for rain to stop, leaving us with windy day.

The journey was through dazzling countryside farms, greenery all through the ride. I was awestruck with nature and leave it to photos to speak more. The scene as we reached Semur-en-auxious was to be described something more than breathtaking. It was beyond words! Such a beautiful medieval city we are descending too. I was excited, completely felt no pain but refreshing at the end of the 96km ride!

Our airbnb host recommended us to the best restaurant in the town to gratify our hunger.

Day 6: semur-en-Auxois to beaune

The best of the best cycling track, of our trip.

We started off with the touring of town, visited the 4 towers, story of the tower and its age was interesting. We witnessed many tourists around.  

We then kicked off the 76km journey for the day in the scenic cycling track along the lively lakeside. Nature was so beautiful that I had impulse to stop every 5 min to capture the beauty I see. It was like cycling in a wonderland of greenery, lake, mountains, valleys and attractive farm houses.  I have seen these images in wallpapers, what a treat to the eyes! We took breaks at few dazzling spots to enjoy and converse with nature. We spotted many folks and kids fishing, camping in caravans, boats and private yachts, and few fellow cyclists who warmly greeted us “Bonjour”.  

Every day when we cross the milestone of less than 20km to destination, a sense of bliss come from within which gives us the energy to pedal faster 😇. Our average mileage will always go up at the end.

Our airbnb host (Stephane &Karine) at Beaune needs a special mention! Well maintained artistic house and they were lovely host too, who delighted us with typical French dinner and breakfast along with homemade eggs, breads, cheese, tender ham, yummy yogurts and variety of flavoursome jams – All homemade. It was just wholesome French meal. They also surprised with return gift as well 😇!

Day 7: Beaune to Courlans  

The town of Beaune and around is known for vineyards. Hectors and hectors of them! We did a quick winery tour and wine tasting at Burgundy.  Now I recognize the ideology behind a premium ones and the grand cue wine 😎            

74km ride for the day was majorly through minor road D970, along the farms either side. Since we were overwhelmed with nature by now, dint take much of stop over’s, but were enjoying our ride in slow pace in the calm and serine environment as we ride through 

Day 8: Touring the villages around Lons -Le-Saunier

The plan for this day was to do a 85 km ride from Lons -Le-Saunier to Nyon(Switzerland) by crossing the Jura mountains (Three cheers to our over confident  plan 😂 ) . The elevation was 1539 metres uphill and 1401 downhill. On day1, we realised this is going to be tough unless we break it to two days, but we dint want to lose a day in Swiss. So plan-B was to tour the two old villages near Lons in the morning and take a bus from Lons -Le-Saunier to Geneva by afternoon. (What a misfortune!  The bus goes through Nyon, but will not stop at that place).

We made a prior booking with Flixbus and also informed about the cycles. We had arranged bike boxes from the intersport shop nearby and ready to board the bus at 1:00 pm, that is coming from Paris. Here comes the twist! The bus arrived at 1:10 and was almost full (Friday noon seems to be the peak time). The diver was in a hurry, He tried fitting our boxes in the luggage bin underway. It was evident that it would take more time since many luggage’s has to be rearranged to fit these 2 boxes. He was running out of time and waved us goodbye, asked us to deal with the bus company customer care. We had the tough time, but managed to get seats in the next bus which is at 9.55 pm in the night. To be on safer side, we then bought multipurpose tarpaulin sheets and repacked our dismantled bikes in it, which was apparent space saver and it was indeed a saviour, to be compactly fitted in the bus. If we were still relying the boxes, our seats in night bus is a question mark !  We learned a better and self-supported way of bike transport, like a bike bag with cushioning would have been ideal!

Yes we did spend 10 hours of this day at the bus station, watching movie and playing tic tac too.

Day 9, 10, 11 & 12

We toured around Switzerland in car, with our friends.  We enjoyed the company of our friends and amazing natural beauty of Switzerland. We visited Bern, Lucerne, and Interlaken. Each place was breathtaking, amazing, something beyond description. It was to be felt through.  But the longing feeling that we both had, seeing a cyclist on road was mutual. Surprisingly we saw more tourist cyclist with loaded bags in Switzerland than France. Swiss also had scenic cycling loop routes with proper signboards. We longed and our inner feeling said cycling is best way to explore Europe.  

We decided to unbox and refit our cycle for a 60 km ride from Nyon to Morges and back. Morges welcomes us a lovely tulip garden. It was an incredible and fulfilling last day ride that we enjoyed every bit of it; the icing on the cake was the lake side picnic lunch with our friends.

Day 13: Airport Adventure

We took SSB train from Nyon to Zurich. Swiss was expensive in transport compared to France, I don’t think it’s limited to just transport :(.   On arrival at the airport, we had a surprise waiting.

We missed to note that, last transit leg of return journey in emirates from Abu Dhabi to Chennai has only one check in baggage allowance. That means from Zurich, we can do through check-in for only 1 baggage per person. So only the bikes can go. Excessive baggage cost 450 USD. Sorry! We can do whole of another bike trip with that cost! So what did it cost to us? We managed to slide in all the cycling tools and sharp items to cycle package, had to discard few liquid items  and we are left with the premium wine bottle that we cannot take it in cabin. What did we do? 😀 Leaving it to your thoughts 

This blog will not be complete without the mention and feeling of thankfulness to…

-         Our friends Kaif & Kooban. Without whom, the whole idea of doing a bicycle trip in France would not be kicked off.  

-         Our little darling son Ananth and his grandparents with whom he stayed, during out trip.

-         My MFC fraternity with whom I train hard and  training harder to accomplish my crazy fitness goals of life.

I am not a blogger and this one, more than a blog, are the pages from my dairy  :), please do excuse for any mistakes or typos..  

Thank a ton for taking time to read through :) This is Nive signing off!