Who would not be excited when
you hear about Europe tour plan, so was I when J (My Hubby) told me “Let’s do a
France and Switzerland trip”. My first shock reaction came when he said it’s
going to be 500 km cycling trip from Paris to Nyon(Switzerland), second
bombshell was for whole trip, all I had to carry was to be fit in small pannier
backpack to be fitted back to cycles. Yes, it was a complete self supported
trip where we had to carry bike support tools plus minimalist clothing.
It was first time for me,
first time bicycle tour, continuous long day rides, unfamiliar country,
completely self supported, just the two of us on the wheels, sounded
adventurous and exciting, but I was also quite apprehensive about it.
J had done few supported
group bicycle trips before in Taiwan, Cameron highlands (Malaysia) and Manali-Leh.
Being a travel freak, to put it right, adventure freak! He loves to venture out
on his own. Having known the facts and fancies about the France cycling tracks
through his friend, the France cycling bug stuck him long back. For us, things
fell in place for May month, mid of spring and perfect weather for cycling,
what more, we have also got 15 hours of sunlight in a day. He
is a pro in planning and I took up the execution part, we both made good combo for the to-do list we had.
The Plan: The plan was to start cycling from Paris after a 2 day sightseeing around Paris, all the way to Nyon(Switzerland) in 7 days(500 km), where our friends stay. 4 days in Switzerland to explore Swiss and return back from Zurich airport.
It was a good recovery time
for the legs, since for the rest of day 1 and day 2, the plan was to go around
exploring Paris within 11KM radius
Day3: Paris to Fontainebleau
Having our lessons learnt
from day1, we got the cycle ergonomics right and proper stretchers done. My
better half had de-greased, oiled and pumped air in both the cycles. When
it comes to cycle maintenance throughout the trip, he was my saviour. He was
mocking me that “I am on full support in spite of what we call it as self
supported ride”. I should rather reword as partner supported ride 😇, better
justified now!
This 76 KM ride from Paris to
Fontainebleau was a cakewalk flat ride through scenic cycling track along Seine
River, forest watching people cycling, trekking, camping and kids playing. We
had proper breaks in-between. Relaxed ride except the fact that last uphill was
killing, and the downhill was thrilling 😏 . We learnt that
doing cycling with our pannier back bags in the elevations is going to be tough
and time consuming.
Day4: Fontainebleau to
Fleury-la-vallee through Sens
This day was the highlight of
the whole trip. Adventure day, I should call it out! This day had
the maximum distance to be covered as per our plan. 106 km and that would be my
maiden 100. Doing my maiden 100 in France with my better half on my holiday
biking trip, what an incredible milestone! Sounded great if alone I had known
the challenges: riding in rain, temperature came down to 10 degrees, drenched
cloths, socks & gloves, difficultly in operating mobile for
navigation in rain, no food, battery drained out, above all a
determined husband who was certain to complete the target for the day. I can’t
take any more!
It was raining
throughout the ride and we kept riding with positivity. If we did not meet this
106 today and break it to two days, we had to rebook all our forthcoming 4
night bookings. Its availability, cost and time bound and definitely not a
tranquil task!
While packing, i did a stupid miscalculation
that my windshield jacket would also act as a rain coat. Whole body was
drenched and the soggy socks and gloves was the most difficult part to handle.
As I kept riding, I didn’t feel that bad but once I stop, I started to shiver.
Hands and legs were numb or frozen? Something that gave me a sore feel. We did
a stopover at 3 places and I changed cloths and was in my last dry set, my
hubby handed over his windshield jacket to me, saying two layer of windshield
would give some more time for water to seep through. It was a Sunday and we
dint know Sunday means a holiday for all! Even the supermarkets were closed. We
could not get a pocha, leave alone the pocha! We could not find a place for our
lunch. We have passed through 3 villages, it was like a haunted place,
completely vacant and shops closed. At around 5.30 pm, at 67KM pass our ride
(still 40 more to go), there was a small saviour bakery shop open. They just
had croissants, buns and cakes. I hogged liked a pig and also stocked a big
cake for rest of ride. Once coming out of the bakery, I started to feel so numb
and cold. I wanted to quit and break that day’s journey. I said I can’t take it
anymore. He told this and started off with his ride. “It is bearable and you
can do it, you should believe you can.”
I read that message has – I
have no options 🤓. I kept riding, may be the belief kept me going or seeing the
man before me, who is enjoying the rain ride. Our per hour average was picking
up good, once reason is stopping will makes you shiver, second your time clock
is ticking, we had to compete before the sun goes down, and sunset is at 9 pm
that day.
Around 9pm we reached our
destination town and that second phone got switched off, power bank drained as
well. Per map navigation, we are very close to our airbnb stay place. We dint
have printouts either. All we know was, our host name in Chris. The name board
where we stopped had some other name. The streets were haunted as well, with no
person to enquire the whereabouts. As we both looked at each other, I was
shuddering and ready to request for refugee access to any stranger! The
gate in front of us opened by itself. A person walked up to us and introduced
himself as Michel, Chris’s son and welcomed us! That moment of relief we had in
our eyes was a great feel that I could never forget. That day I had experienced
extreme emotions and thankfulness when my basic needs were met: food, shelter
and dry clothing!
Michael was such a sweet host
and obliged to our request for dinner and also using his washer &dryer for our wet cloths. That pasta and hash browns showed me the
heaven.
Post food, I had a tiff with… who else😉.. Because, next day per rain prediction, shower till 2pm. I was determined not to ride in rain again. He was pleased to offer me the responsibility to rebook the rest of the airbnb bookings. Three out of four bookings, their next day was not available. I had to explore new places, revisit the route map and re-schedule. Not my cup of tea, neither did I have energy at 11.45 pm!
With the whole drama, did I
forget to mention the vitality of the route! First half of the route was through
D-road (minor roads) that hardly had cars, and special mention to all car
drivers who had utmost respect for cyclist. On the sides of D roads were the
wonderful wheat farms, and beautiful unending fields of yellow flowers (later
found it as mustard flowers). They all blossom at spring and we were spot on.
Post Sens, majority of the route was along the river. We witnessed massive,
beautiful and arty churches on all the towns we crossed.
Day 5: fleury-la-vallee to
semur-en-Auxois(beautiful medieval town)
Weather prediction showed
rain in fleury-la-vallee till 2pm. If we managed to cross it soon, the next
town seems to be clear by 11 am. With the target of 96KM for the day, for our
saddle time we maintain, we need to kick off by 10 am.
We started off with the brave
head in the drizzle, lucky enough for rain to stop, leaving us with windy day.
The journey was through
dazzling countryside farms, greenery all through the ride. I was awestruck with
nature and leave it to photos to speak more. The scene as we reached
Semur-en-auxious was to be described something more than breathtaking. It was
beyond words! Such a beautiful medieval city we are descending too. I was
excited, completely felt no pain but refreshing at the end of the 96km ride!
Our airbnb host recommended
us to the best restaurant in the town to gratify our hunger.
Day 6: semur-en-Auxois to beaune
The best of the best cycling
track, of our trip.
We started off with the
touring of town, visited the 4 towers, story of the tower and its age was interesting.
We witnessed many tourists around.
We then kicked off the 76km
journey for the day in the scenic cycling track along the lively lakeside.
Nature was so beautiful that I had impulse to stop every 5 min to capture the
beauty I see. It was like cycling in a wonderland of greenery, lake, mountains,
valleys and attractive farm houses. I have seen these images in
wallpapers, what a treat to the eyes! We took breaks at few dazzling spots to
enjoy and converse with nature. We spotted many folks and kids fishing, camping
in caravans, boats and private yachts, and few fellow cyclists who warmly
greeted us “Bonjour”.
Every day when we cross the
milestone of less than 20km to destination, a sense of bliss come from within
which gives us the energy to pedal faster 😇. Our average mileage will
always go up at the end.
Our airbnb host (Stephane
&Karine) at Beaune needs a special mention! Well maintained artistic house
and they were lovely host too, who delighted us with typical French dinner and
breakfast along with homemade eggs, breads, cheese, tender ham, yummy yogurts
and variety of flavoursome jams – All homemade. It was just wholesome French
meal. They also surprised with return gift as well 😇!
Day 7: Beaune to Courlans
The town of Beaune and around is known for vineyards. Hectors and hectors of them! We did a quick winery tour and wine tasting at Burgundy. Now I recognize the ideology behind a premium ones and the grand cue wine 😎
74km ride for the day was majorly through minor road D970, along the farms either side. Since we were overwhelmed with nature by now, dint take much of stop over’s, but were enjoying our ride in slow pace in the calm and serine environment as we ride through
Day 8: Touring the villages around
Lons -Le-Saunier
The plan for this day was to
do a 85 km ride from Lons -Le-Saunier to Nyon(Switzerland) by crossing the Jura
mountains (Three cheers to our over confident plan 😂 ) .
The elevation was 1539 metres uphill and 1401 downhill. On day1, we realised
this is going to be tough unless we break it to two days, but we dint want to
lose a day in Swiss. So plan-B was to tour the two old villages near Lons in
the morning and take a bus from Lons -Le-Saunier to Geneva by afternoon. (What
a misfortune! The bus goes through Nyon, but will not stop at that
place).
We made a prior booking with
Flixbus and also informed about the cycles. We had arranged bike boxes from the
intersport shop nearby and ready to board the bus at 1:00 pm, that is coming
from Paris. Here comes the twist! The bus arrived at 1:10 and was almost full
(Friday noon seems to be the peak time). The diver was in a hurry, He tried
fitting our boxes in the luggage bin underway. It was evident that it would
take more time since many luggage’s has to be rearranged to fit these 2 boxes.
He was running out of time and waved us goodbye, asked us to deal with the bus
company customer care. We had the tough time, but managed to get seats in the
next bus which is at 9.55 pm in the night. To be on safer side, we then bought
multipurpose tarpaulin sheets and repacked our dismantled bikes in it, which
was apparent space saver and it was indeed a saviour, to be compactly fitted in
the bus. If we were still relying the boxes, our seats in night bus is a
question mark ! We learned a better and self-supported way of bike
transport, like a bike bag with cushioning would have been ideal!
Yes we did spend 10 hours of
this day at the bus station, watching movie and playing tic tac too.
Day 9, 10, 11 & 12
We toured around Switzerland
in car, with our friends. We enjoyed the company of our friends and
amazing natural beauty of Switzerland. We visited Bern, Lucerne, and
Interlaken. Each place was breathtaking, amazing, something beyond description.
It was to be felt through. But the longing feeling that we both had,
seeing a cyclist on road was mutual. Surprisingly we saw more tourist cyclist
with loaded bags in Switzerland than France. Swiss also had scenic cycling loop
routes with proper signboards. We longed and our inner feeling said cycling is
best way to explore Europe.
We decided to unbox and refit our cycle for a 60 km ride from Nyon to Morges and back. Morges welcomes us a lovely tulip garden. It was an incredible and fulfilling last day ride that we enjoyed every bit of it; the icing on the cake was the lake side picnic lunch with our friends.
Day 13: Airport Adventure
We took SSB train from Nyon
to Zurich. Swiss was expensive in transport compared to France, I don’t think
it’s limited to just transport :(. On arrival at the airport, we
had a surprise waiting.
We missed to note that, last
transit leg of return journey in emirates from Abu Dhabi to Chennai has only
one check in baggage allowance. That means from Zurich, we can do through
check-in for only 1 baggage per person. So only the bikes can go. Excessive
baggage cost 450 USD. Sorry! We can do whole of another bike trip with that
cost! So what did it cost to us? We managed to slide
in all the cycling tools and sharp items to cycle package, had to discard few
liquid items and we are left with the premium wine bottle that we
cannot take it in cabin. What did we do? 😀 Leaving it to your thoughts
This blog will not be
complete without the mention and feeling of thankfulness to…
-
Our friends Kaif & Kooban. Without whom, the whole idea of
doing a bicycle trip in France would not be kicked off.
-
Our little darling son Ananth and his grandparents with whom he
stayed, during out trip.
-
My MFC fraternity with whom I train hard and training harder to
accomplish my crazy fitness goals of life.
I am not a blogger and this
one, more than a blog, are the pages from my dairy :), please do excuse for any
mistakes or typos..
Thank a ton for taking time
to read through :) This
is Nive signing off!
